November 6-29, 2009
The guide book promised "The charmin town of San Antonio de Areco is the main site of interest to the capital's northwest [...] if you visit only one pampas town during your stay in Argentina, this is the one to head for." Sounded promising so we looked it up and turns out this town is not only considered the home of gaucho traditions, it hosts the annual Fiesta de la Tradicion, the country's most important festival celbrating pampas culture. And wouldn't you know it... the festival was gonna be on during our first weekend in Argentina!
San Antonio's Fiesta de la Tradicion began in 1939. The actual Dia de la Tradicion is November 10 but the celebrations last for a week, typically the first or second week of November. Activities include exhibits, dances, music recitals and shows of gaucho skills. The highpoint is the final Sunday, which begins with dancing and a parade of gauchos on horseback. An asado (giant barbecue) takes place at midday in the Parque Criollo and is followed by an extensive display of gaucho skills. And wouldn't you know it... today was that day!
Christine had never been to see the festival so she came with us to San Antonio de Areco. We left pretty early in the day to be sure to make it for the parade... we needn't have worried - in Argentina things rarely start on time and this was to be no exception! Also, the festival was also about a lot of pomp and circumstance and although the festivities probably carried on late into the evening, we headed home way before then.
Seeing so many horses and gauchos was pretty amazing, but I think what really stuck with us was our first taste of the Argentine asado with the barbecued beef. Apparently Argentina is a country that loves its beef and they keep the best stuff for themselves rather than exporting it. Wow, that is some good beef!
The drive home was a little longer than expected as we ended up stuck in traffic. Nevertheless Rubby enjoyed his first driving experience and we had fun spotting all the old cars, laughing at the use of 'lanes', and being amazed at how cars would just pull off the highway on to the grass to stop for a siesta or little picnic. We even saw some kids sledding on cardboard down the side hills of an overpass!
Oh and congratulations to Samantha who did such a good job holding her pee through the long traffic jam and until we got home!
the photos:
argentina menu: