Argentina
November 6-29, 2009
November 13: Puerto Madryn to Esquel: Leaving Puerto Madryn
We managed to get a fairly early start this morning. While we packed up the car Samantha took the opportunity to take a few photos of our apartment and we were on our way by 7:30am. As we were leaving Puerto Madryn we stopped at one of the shrines along the road that looked especially spectacular with the red flags flying against the blue skies. We later found out that these shrines are in homage to Gauchito Gil, and perhaps he was watching over our travels today.
Here's the story of Gauchito Gil as explained in our guide book:
Shrines smothered in red flags, red candles, empty bottles,etc. are erected in homage to the semi-mythical Gauchito Gil, a kind of nineteenth century gaucho Robin Hood.
Born perhaps in 1847 in Corrientes, Antonio Gil refused to fight in that province's civil war and fled to the mountains, robbing from the rich, helping the poor and healing with his hands. Captured by the police, he claimed that he had deserted from the army as he had been told in a dream by a Guaraní god that brothers shouldn't fight. An unimpressed sergeant took him out to a spot near Mercedes and decided to execute him, even though a pardon was likely forthcoming. Gil told the segeant that when he returned to town he would find that his sone was seriously ill, but as Gil's blood was innocent ic could perform miracles, so the segeant must pray for his intervention. Unmoved, the segeant cut Gil's throat. When he returned to town, he found that the situation was indeed as the gaucho had described, but -after fervent prayer - his son made a miraculous recovery.
The sergeant put up the first shrine to thank him, and Gauchito Gil has since been credited with numerous miracles and honoured with many shrines, all bedecked in the distinctive red flags - which may represent his neck scarf soaked in blood - making the shrine look like the aftermath of a left-wing political demonstration after all the protesters have gone home.
A couple of sleepyheads.
The picture of the elephant seals over the dining table. (photo by Samantha)
The bedroom. (photo by Samantha)
The kitchen. (photo by Samantha)
The bathroom sink and the ceiling. (photos by Samantha)
Christopher is ready for another day of adventure! (photo by Samantha)
The dog guarding the gate.
The courtyard at the back of the hotel.
They love their barbecues!
Driving past the waterfront.
The touristy area of Puerto Madryn.
Yikes! 666 km to go... hope this isn't an omen!
A view of Puerto Madryn (complete with garbage strewn around the surrounding countryside) as we leave town.
Some interesting sandy land formations surrounding Puerto Madryn.
A pottery shop along the road.
A monument to volunteer firefighters.
Statues, candles, flags, and water bottles that are put as offerings.
Off to the side was also a small shrine to La Difunta Correa.
Christopher reading his Tag books in the car.
Which way to the Andes? Take this road and go... STRAIGHT!
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