Argentina

November 6-29, 2009

November 28: Buenos Aires: Recoleta, La Boca and Puerto Madero: La Boca

Before leaving Argentina, we definitely had to go see "La Boca" - a famous neighbourhood in Buenos Aires known for its colourful houses which we knew that the kids (especially Samantha) would absolutely love. Named after the "boca", or mouth, of the Rio Riachuelo which makes up the southern border of this neighbourhood, the district was the favoured destination for many Italian immigrants. Our guidebook claimed that the colours of the houses derive from the Genoese custom of painting homes with the left over paint from their boats.

Within la Boca we walked along la Caminito, a pedestrian street which serves somewhat as an open-air art museum. It contains the greatest concentration of Boca's colourful houses. The street was "founded" by the barrio's most favous artist, Benito Quinquela Martin, who painted epic and expressive scenes of the neighbourhood's daily life. Qinquela Martin encouraged the immigrants' tradition of painting their houses in bright colours and took the name for the street from a famous 1926 tango by Gabino Coria Penaloza an dJuan de Dios Filiberto.

We had lunch at one of the little outdoor restaurants where you could watch tango dancers and musicians perform as you eat. Then we walked around a bit looking at all the colourful houses, the crafts and paintings and the people in general.

We arrive by taxi at the edge of La Boca area.

Ornate signs on the shops... an example of filete art.

Filete art on a coca-cola bottle... although this shop seems to sell pepsi products also.

Lots of signs done in the ornate style of filete, including the popular saying "Si toma para olvidar pague antes de tomar"
(If you drink to forget, pay before drinking).

Some interesting incense burners.

In the pedestrian area of La Boca.

Lots of bars, restaurants and cafes.

The typical busker... a statue lady who comes to life when you give her money.

An interesting display of fake coffee beverages.

Lots of great souvenir ideas for the aunt colony back home. ;-)

Not all the residents look friendly!

Sam loved the colourful houses and this was one of her favourites.

We'll have to make a garbage can like this when we get back home to remind us of la boca!

From higher up we get a better view of the courtyard.

Christine, Rubby and Christopher looking around the souvenir shops.

Colourful lanterns strung from roof to roof.

A musician advertising his tango CDs.

More colourful houses.

A cute little balcony.

Sammy decides to help one of the locals with some laundry.

A typical scene in la Boca.

This must be the fancy area... the president and Maradona on the same balcony?!

Sam loved all the colourful artwork.

Artwork and graffiti.

Getting lots of craft ideas! (Now where to find some corrugated cardboard...)

A sign explaining how the Bomberos Voluntarios de la Boca Square was developed on the grounds of a former wasteland and has become an important public space for La Boca dwellers. It is the extension of Caminito Street Outdoors Museum. It accomodates an amphitheater and the train station of the railway which links La Boca and Puerto Madero districts.