Argentina

November 6-29, 2009

November 14: Hiking in Alerces National Park: Alerces National Park - Pinturas Rupestres

There are several notable sites in Patagonia where you can see native rock paintings, the most famous being the Cueva de Manos which was unfortunately too far south for us to go see. So when we heard about this little hike to see some indigenous paintings, we decided we had to see at least one.

The most difficulat part of the pastoral 500m Pinturas Rupestres circuit is the spring-loaded gate at the beginning. We decided to have lunch at the trail head and then headed off down the path. On a hulk of grey rock that's surrounded by caña colihue and maiten trees we passed the couple of eroded indigenous geometric designs painted about 3000 years ago.

This style of native rock art is characterized by jagged lines and almonds and can be found in various media and locations within Patagonia: rock walls, tools, prints, ceramics -showing its symbolic importance to its inhabitants. This art reflects the dynamic interaction and movement of goods in the Pampa-Patagonia region for centuries before and after the sixteenth century when European expansion began. In the woods, this style takes on new meaning: zigzags, almond shapes, and triangles joined by lines or circles are some of the abstract motifs that are reiterated in the lake areas.

Various archaeological sites from different environments show similarities in terms of lithic technology, ceramics and rock art. From this we can infer that there were Indian settlements at these sites which date to at least 2000 years ago and that these settlements used large networks with north-south and east-west circulation to connect this area to other areas of Patagonia.

We continued up to the top of the rock for an amazing view across the river valley and towards Lago Futalaufquen before heading back down to the car.

The trailhead sign of the interpretive trail "Un bosque heredado" - an inherited forest.

It's a gate... but how do we get through it?!

A southern lapwing.

A sign showing other areas in the region where native rock paintings have been discovered.

But before we head out... lunch time! Still working on that pizza from Puerto Madryn!

They love their jamon here!

A buff-necked ibis (bandurria).

Another buff-necked ibis honks loudly as it takes flight.

Is it going to rain?! Maybe just a little sprinkle.

An enormous bee checking out the holly-leaved barberry.

Some more busy bees attracted by the bright flowers.

At the rock wall a boardwalk has been built... the paintings suffer enough wear and tear from the elements that they don't need humans climbing around on them as well!