Iceland: Day 5 - Arnarstapi

June 29, 2004

As we approached the southern area of the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, we got to an ecological reserve which covers Arnarstapi and Hellnar. Created in 1979 this 58 hectares of coastal reserve features many strange cliff formations carved by the surf.

At Arnarstapi, a small and picturesque harbour, we had a picnic lunch next to a huge stone structure called Bárður Snæfellsás made by sculptor Ragnar Kjartansson. Tradition has it that the area around the Snaefellsjokull was settled by Bárður who was a shaman/viking and sensed the energy of the glacier.

After our picnic we visited the Stapagjar ravines which are in fact great caves that the sea carved into the columnar basalt rocks. The ravines are three in number and are called Eystrigja, Midgja and Musargja. There is a multitude of birds in the ravines, especially kittiwakes.

We also had our first encounter with the arctic terns which were breeding in the fields. They get extremely territorial if you get anywhere close to their nests so we had a good hour of fun seeing how far either of us dared walk into the fields before the attacking terns chased us back out. These turned out to be the birds that Rubby had read about prior to our trip... our Iceland guide suggested carrying a stick in the air so that the birds attack the topmost point of the stick rather than your head!

Birds nesting on the basalt column cliffs.

The bird cliffs along the shore. You can see the rough area of the vegetation which is a lava flow extending towards the cliffs.

Interesting rock formations in the cliffs.

Rubby demonstrating the scale of the natural bridge.

One of just thousands of kittiwakes.

The ravines have underground connections to the sea. They provide shelter from the wind and great nesting places for the birds. The snow capped mountain in the background is the Snaefellsjokull.

More kittiwakes nesting in the ravines.

Rubby tries to get a closer look.

A 'dung frosted gull' (our polite version of shit-faced gull... they look like they've dunked their heads into a pile of doodoo!) pointing out the name and location of one of the ravines.

Some basalt stacks lying horizontally in the ocean... they look like neatly piled hexagonal logs.

More basalt islands.

artic tern

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