Iceland: Day 9 - - Bjarnarflag and around
July 3, 2004
The thermal zone of Bjarnarflag lies on the lower slopes of Dalfjall, a long faulted ridge pushed up by subterranean pressures that runs northeast to the Krafla volcano. Bjarnarflag has a small geothermal power station - Iceland's first, built in 1969. However the main focus is the Kísilidjan diatomite plant, which processes the silica-rich shells of diatoms, single-celled organisms whose massed remains form a thick layer (5-10m) of sludge on the bottom of Mývatn. The silica is used as a filter in manufacturing and diatomite itself is used as an insecticide - the fine, sharp-edged particles get into insects' armoured joints and cut them to pieces. Dredging of the lake has been controversial but benefits include employment outside of tourism, and deeper waters for fish to flourish in. Behind Kísilidjan is a huge wall to deflect potential lava flows coming from Krafla in the north.
Our guidebook also talked about an underground bakery in the area. After a determined half hour search, finally found this 'bakery' - a few dozen small pits dug into the superheated, steaming soil, each covered with weighted lids or sheets of scrap metal. Rye dough is mixed with yeast and molasses and left underground for a day to make hverabrauð (steam bread). Sometimes other things are cooked here as well, such as the Icelandic specialty of boiled sheep's head.
Rubby checking out the blue hot waters from the powerplant
scheuchzer's cottongrass
The hot water pipes behind the lake.
The blues of the water and sky contrast the reds from the mountain.
in search of the bakery
Found it!
An odd setting for a 'bakery'
Some bread... and a sheep's head?!
A little garden in front of the steaming thermal area.
Rubby checks out these clover patches which must have been old bakery holes grown over.
The only hay field in the area looks strange amidst the geothermal volcanic areas.
View of the brickworks. The bakery is between it and the road.
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